The population of Riomaggiore is about 1700, but that will swell in coming weeks. The Cinque Terre is one of Italy’s top destinations. Visiting such a place has its pros and cons. Sometime’s it’s not great to visit a place everyone else is also visiting. Any more into peak season and this place, and the surrounding villages, would be packed. And there’s only so long I’m willing to wait in line for a gelato. But tourist havens have their perks: our every need is catered to. While there is some agricultural industries in the area – olives, wine, fruit – this area relies heavily on tourism. Particularly now. Last October, landslides shattered Venazza and Monterosso. Four people were killed and clean-up efforts are on-going. After taking a hit like that, this area, more than ever, needs all the tourist dollars it can get.
On Saturday morning we venture down the hill into the village. Such is life on the road, we needed to do some washing. The hotel offers it, but will deliver the clothes back two days after pick up and I’m out of undies! But Riomaggiore has a laundromat, which we find on the main street. In most places, getting my clothes clean can be a task and usually involves me standing over a sink so this is a nice change.
We kill the wash cycle time by visiting every shop on the main street. Last night when we walked through it was just the cafes and restaurants that were open. Now there are small grocers, souvenir shops, clothing shops, a pharmacy and lots and lots of hotels. Oh I’d hate to be here when all of them are full, which happens for much of the high season. I don’t know where all the people go.
The street is so narrow that if two cars approach, one is forced to tuck itself anywhere it can to let the other pass. This doesn’t happen often as the main street is usually blocked to traffic, but early morning deliveries require vans, and it’s a tight squeeze. My favourite locals are the ladies that gather on a bench in the lower part of town. They were there every night. Just sitting. Talking. Watching.
Later, after stocking up on salad items and bread for lunch (six euro including a bunch of fruit) and hanging our clothes to dry around the hotel room, we relax for a few hours. I try to avoid the sun in its hottest hours. When it cools off we head back down that hill. There is a trail that links the five Cinque Terre villages together and the first section is only 1km to Manarola. It’s nicknames Lovers’ Lane and we meet enough of them on the stroll. It’s the only section of the route that’s paved all the way. It’s nearly completely flat and hugs the coastline so it’s a gorgeous walk.
If you had shown me photos of these villages a few days ago, I would have struggled to pick one from the other, but after just a short while in Manarola the little quirks begin to stand out. Where as the centre of Riomaggiore is further from the Coast and separated by the train line, Manarola has better access. The walk down to the water is lined with boats. We have dinner here before walking back along the Coast and back up that hill.
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