A trip down memory lane

“It’s nice to be home,” I told my friend.

“This isn’t really home is it?” she replied. “Your family isn’t here are they?”

“No, but this will always be home.”

“This” is the north-west coast of Tasmania.

It’s where I was born. Grew up. Went to school. Got my first “real” job. Grew up again. Bought my first house.

Until I left Australia in 2011 I had spent all but four years of my life living in the region. I may no longer live here. My family may no longer live here. But I will never feel more connected to any place in this world.

The north-west is a special part of Tassie.

The standard six degrees of separation is actually three or less. When I started working as a journalist for The Advocate newspaper – the same paper where my parents’ engagement and wedding notices were placed, along with my birth announcement the following year – I could barely get through the week without someone I was interviewing recognising my surname and asking me if I was David’s daughter or telling me they knew my grandparents. I have a love/hate relationship with this kind of community. It can feel a bit suffocating, and I revelled in the anonymity I had while travelling. But there’s nothing quite like seeing familiar faces when you walk into your favourite cafe. And even better – having the owner remember your drink order from three years ago.

The north-west is also absolutely beautiful. Coastline. Lush countryside. Rich bushland and rainforest. Curious small towns. It’s all here. Sometimes within a short drive.

One of the great things about this part of Tassie is the highway follows the coastline. Shortly after leaving Devonport, if you’re heading west, you’ll start following the water and it will barely leave your sight for 100km. Sometimes I think it’s one of the reasons people can live an hour from where they work and happily commute every day.

Some of the highway now bypasses the smaller towns, but if you’ve got the time definitely take the scenic route. When you get to Wynyard, doing so will take you to Bruce’s Cafe – my favourite cafe in all of Tassie. It’s not just because I know the owners – I genuinely love what they do here.

They have great food with an emphasis on local and seasonal produce, it’s in a beautiful location and there’s free wifi, which is a bit of a treat in Tassie. I also love how engaged Bruce’s is with the community. Lix, one of the owners, features some of her customers on the cafe’s blog in a section called Bruce’s People.

Just out of Wynyard and back on the Bass Highway is where you’ll come across my favourite view in Tasmania.

It’s taken near Flowerdale. About 15 minutes down the road is the dairy farm I grew up on at Montumana. About five minutes behind me is Wynyard, where our family did our grocery shopping, I played basketball and netball and took piano lessons. Further along the highway is the city of Burnie, where I went to high school. So it’s fair to say I travelled this stretch of road a lot. The rolling hills in the distance is Rocky Cape National Park. This corner is the first glimpse of the “Sleeping Camel” when driving west. There’s a lot of sentiment attached to this view, but it’s still pretty spectacular.

The North-West Coast is a big region, but I’m most familiar with the places between Stanley and Burnie. Driving between the town brings back so many memories. Sometimes I was surprised things had changed. Other times I was surprised it was still the same.

I drove down Montumana Rd, which is where I grew up. Actually, specifically I grew up on Hogarth Rd. Yep, that’s right. It’s named after my family.

When we had dairy cows Dad was usually busy in the afternoon because he had to milk them. But once we sold the cows he was free to take my sister and I swimming after school. We’d bring a canoe to the Detention River and paddle around at high tide. My sister’s dog Fudge loved riding in the canoe with her.

Between Rocky Cape and Stanley is my favourite beach in Tasmania. Every now and then Mum and Dad would let us get takeaway for dinner and we’d eat it here and go for a swim or walk along the sand. I can’t remember coming here and ever seeing another person. It’s quite easy to get to, as long as you know where to look. I’m not going to tell you the name of the beach, but I’m sure if you ask around a local might spill the secret.

That big thing you can see in the distance is The Nut at Stanley. This is not to be confused with the big thing you can see in the third picture in this post – that’s Table Cape. Confusing I know. Sorry. Anyway.

While I’m probably letting you in on a few local secrets, this isn’t one of them. Stanley is gorgeous and everybody knows it. Once you start researching a visit to Tassie, Stanley will be on your radar.

I enjoy the town for its beauty and charm, but also for its personality. Things move a little slower here. No one is in a rush. Everyone is friendly (and of course knows everyone else). There are lots of lovely heritage houses, which add to the town’s character.

Tourism is what Stanley survives on and so the locals look after it. There are some nice cafes (I like Touchwood and Brown Dog) and you can check out local produce at Providore 24. Cow ‘n’ Calf Art Gallery showcases the work of photographer David Murphy and a few other north-west and Tasmanian artists, and the Stanley Hotel does some of the best pub meals I’ve ever had.

There’s a lot of history here (A LOT), which I’m not going to even get started with, but do give yourself time to visit Highfield House and pop down to the wharf and read about the VDL Company.

And of course there’s The Nut. I’ve been up a few times, but didn’t have the time on this trip. There’s a chairlift, but I recommend walking up (why not?) and catching the chairlift back down so you can admire the view over the town.

I’d wanted to spend a lot longer on the north-west, but my day trip to Stanley was about all the sightseeing I managed in between catching up with friends and running errands such as inspecting my house and getting my eyes tested (it had been a while). I could have easily filled a week and then some. But it was wonderful to explore the area after so long away. I thought it would feel strange to be back, but I guess the thing about coming home is that it’s where I feel the most comfortable, no matter how long I leave for.

On the way back to Burnie I drove around Table Cape and just in time for some sunset views.

The last photo is Table Cape as seen from Burnie. Not to be confused with The Nut as seen from any place west of Table Cape.